Returning to my Second Home

Meeting back up again with the path I was on 4 years ago — after a small detour.

It’s been a while since I’ve popped up in your inboxes. As usual, it’s a multitude of things that have been so greedy for my time that I couldn’t write here but now I’ve decided that it’s been far too long and now I’m breaking the silence with some exciting news to share.

Four years ago I left Japan and moved back home to the UK. There were some personal things going on at the time that made it absolutely the right thing to do. But something started to change within me last year, when I returned to Kyoto for a short break. It was a gloriously sunny May day and I was bathing in the effervescent beauty and calmness that the city is known for. I was cycling through the city to one of my favourite gardens and in that serene moment it suddenly hit me: I have to move back here.

It’s little surprise to anyone who knows me that I have a deep resonance with Japan. The obsession began whilst living and working in Tokyo. The years spent living there became somewhat of a pivotal shift in my life and it’s where my wife and I started up our coffee shop; Deakin St coffee stand. A place that we worked tirelessly on until it truly became the heart of the neighbourhood.

Truthfully though, for everything I loved about Japan and the opportunities it gave me, there were a few hurdles that I failed to jump over that helped to give weight to the eventual idea that I should return home. Like many expats, I faced challenges that tested my confidence—from navigating cultural nuances to trying, and failing to build connections in a language I wasn’t anywhere near fluent in. However, these were not the only reasons I said goodbye to the country I loved; there were other family-related things going on at the time that made the return home an easier pill to swallow, no matter how much I thought I was going to miss Japan and its beauty.

And miss Japan I did. Back in the UK, I found great joy in reconnecting with family and friends, yet I couldn’t shake a sense of unease and being un-settled. While London certainly brought moments of happiness and connection, each return to Kyoto felt like a homecoming, a quiet reminder of where my heart belonged. Back when we were living in the country, my wife and I had always planned on moving there after living in Tokyo for a few years and it just so turns out that we took a small detour halfway across the world to make that happen.

So now we’re returning. In May. And what am I going to be doing? Well, during the first few months I aim to explore the city deeply and write about my discoveries. Staying well away from any tourist traps and digging out the hidden gems—those tucked-away places that reveal Kyoto’s authentic charm. Tourists tend to flock to the same ten spots in Kyoto. I want to write about the eleventh—the places only locals know. These might be a family-run tea house where time feels like it’s stood still, or a quiet shrine nestled in the hills, offering peace far from the usual crowds. These are the spots where the essence of the city truly comes alive, untouched by the rush of mass tourism. Places like Kazu Bar, a secretive space with no signage and no lights inside except for a handful of candles spread out across the tables. We spent a memorable night there in 2018 and fell in love with Elliot Moss’ Slip which was ringing out into the darkness we were engulfed in. It was the perfect song for that moment. And when it came time to pay, the owner counted our change with a small torch in his mouth. Or Sennyuji, a temple in the east of the city that hasn’t yet been spoiled by throngs of tourists with their selfie-sticks. One reviewer on Google Maps described its location as being difficult to access and gave it a 1-star review. It’s these places the tourists don’t venture to that I aim to seek out—by speaking to locals directly.

Imagine the soft patter of rain on the ancient gravel, the gentle sway of trees in a misty breeze—this is Sennyuji in its quiet, rain-soaked splendour. Here’s a short video I captured of the moment:

With this Substack, I want to begin sharing Kyoto’s hidden corners and quiet magic with you to inspire your own journey. Whether you're planning a future trip or reminiscing about past visits, I hope these discoveries enrich your connection with the city. I will of course continue writing letters inspired by my love of music, creativity, gardening, craftsmanship and philosophy as I have always done, but it’ll be somewhat filtered through my relationship to my new home. If any of this resonates please subscribe, or share this with someone who dreams of exploring Kyoto beyond the guidebooks.

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There’s lots to plan before the move and a heck of a lot of Japanese study to embark on! Thank you for being here and please do share this letter with anyone you think might enjoy it.

SJF 🍃